Egg-Cracker 2 Underway

I had too much fun on that first Egg-Cracker, so I’m going to try to repeat that (and, in all probability, make myself hate it) by building one at home on the workbench. This time, however, I’m using a 1/76 Maschinen Krieger “Nutrocker” as a constant reference. That’s right. I’m going to try to do this somewhat semi-accurately.

Not too far along yet. I’ve really just cut the egg in half, used a white pencil to sketch out where I think some of the details should go, cut some metal tape to size, and glued a couple bits on. Nothing too fancy.

I am, however, planning to do one other thing very different with this one. I intend to cast it–for personal use only. I’m designing this with the intention of, once complete, pouring a silicone mold around it, and then casting copies of it in resin.

For the amateur just looking to have fun, this is really an easy prospect. I’ve done it before, with varying results. And this time, I’ll blog my way through it. Hopefully someone who’s interested in messing with resin casting, but hasn’t made the leap for whatever reason, will read along and see how easy it really is. And then… Then they’ll turn out some amazing stuff and add to their own enjoyment of the hobby. That’s the goal, at any rate. We’ll see how it goes.

First tips for casting: Because I’m just an amateur doing this with amateur off-the-shelf products, I’ve had to soften a few details. Like the little bits on the front (which are the same bits I used on the front of the first Egg-Cracker. There are more detailed and Nutrocker-accurate parts I could have used, but I know they wouldn’t cast well. So I sacrificed that detail in favor of something that will cast better with my amateur setup. And I’m okay with that. Second, I’m trying to fill some gaps on the hull. Some of the pieces I’m attaching don’t lie flat against the surface of a plastic egg. As a result, if I pour silicone around it, the silicone will get into those gaps–that’s the voice of experience. So I’m using a squeeze-bottle of Testors “clear” glue (designed for use with aircraft canopies, windshields, etc.) as a gap-filler. It should work, but I haven’t tried it before for this. So we’ll see how that goes. Together. I’ll keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

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